#NotOldyButGoldy
Vintage is. *HENLEY SHIRT*
From gentleman’s sport jersey, to hard work uniform, to jolly of men’s wardrobe.
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#NotOldyButGoldy
Vintage is *HENLEY SHIRT*
From gentleman’s sport jersey, to hard work uniform, to jolly of men’s wardrobe.
The origins of the Henley shirt date back to Victorian England, where it was initially designed as a men’s undergarment. Its essential feature—comfort—quickly proved to be a key factor in its success within the world of sports. One of the first groups to adopt it was rowing crews, a popular sport at the time, who chose it as their official competition uniform. The shirt got its name from the town of Henley-on-Thames, renowned for hosting the prestigious Royal Regatta since 1839, which became synonymous with this essential and functional garment. The choice of the athletes was intentional: the buttoned placket on the chest allowed for better temperature regulation during physical exertion, while the absence of a collar prevented irritating fabric from flapping, ensuring greater freedom of movement. Since then, the Henley shirt has evolved through various eras and styles, transforming from a simple sportswear item into a must-have staple in casual wardrobes.
With the Industrial Revolution, the production of the Henley shirt increased significantly, leading to its widespread distribution. Thanks to its practical features, it quickly became an icon of workwear, particularly in high-temperature environments like mines and fields. During this time, the Henley shirt was used more purposefully: it was primarily worn for heavy labor, as an undergarment, or as a sports uniform, further solidifying its reputation for functionality and durability. Interestingly, in Italy, the popularity of this garment took a different path, closely linked to its local name. There, the Henley shirt is known as the “Serafino,” a name that has its origins in Italian cinema. The term comes from the 1968 film Serafino by Pietro Germi, in which a young Adriano Celentano portrays a shepherd from central Italy who often wears three-button undershirts—similar to the shirts we now refer to as Serafino. This illustrates how pop culture can influence language and shape perceptions of a piece of clothing.
Starting in the 1960s, the Henley shirt began to appear in women’s wardrobes, establishing itself as a garment with a relaxed yet classic aesthetic. Its exceptional versatility has made it an essential piece for casual looks, and its presence in pop culture is both widespread and hard to confine to a single context. Rather than belonging to a specific era or trend, the Henley is associated with a series of iconic images, actors, and characters that have made it legendary. Bruce Lee famously wore a simple white Henley in The Big Boss (1971), cementing the association between the shirt and his charismatic persona in collective memory. Similarly, Sylvester Stallone wore a white Henley in Rocky IV (1985), where it appeared during the iconic training sequences, emphasizing the character’s physicality and determination. In the new millennium, the Henley shirt remains a recurring choice for effortlessly masculine and charismatic looks. Ryan Gosling wears it in Drive (2011), enhancing his minimalist yet tension-filled style. Meanwhile, Daniel Craig dons the shirt on multiple occasions in the James Bond saga, adding a touch of ruggedness and informality to his portrayal of the iconic character. Another memorable appearance comes from Michael C. Hall as Dexter Morgan, the infamous serial killer from the series Dexter. Often seen in dark, long-sleeved Henley shirts, this garment becomes a sort of uniform for the protagonist, reflecting his meticulous nature and introspective side.
The Henley, a.k.a. Serafino, has become a true wildcard in men’s wardrobes, providing a dynamic and sporty alternative to the classic polo shirt. Its design features a round neckline with a front placket that can accommodate between 2 to 5 buttons. Over the years, the Henley has been reinterpreted in various ways while still retaining the essential charm that has made it an icon. Traditionally crafted from cotton, it comes in both short- and long-sleeved options. The Henley Shirt has seen subtle updates, such as variations in button size and the addition of ribbed cuffs, all while preserving its timeless aesthetic. Vintage55’s version continues to celebrate the evolution of clothing by introducing a Henley to its women’s collection as well. Tailored details, including engraved buttons that enhance the neckline and vintage washes that showcase the craftsmanship, give it an authentic and distinctive character that sets it apart from a simple T-shirt. Last season, the Henley was also offered in a waffle-knit fabric, which features a three-dimensional texture that provides extra structure and comfort, making it ideal for mid-season wear or for those seeking a vintage-inspired look with a contemporary twist.
Our version of an Icon
Musical tip: “Regatta de Blanc”
The Police
