#NotOldyButGoldy
Vintage is. *FATIGUE PANTS*
A military training accessory, a symbol of rebellion, and a cornerstone of men’s fashion in just over sixty years.
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#NotOldyButGoldy
Vintage is *FATIGUE PANTS*
A military training accessory, a symbol of rebellion, and a cornerstone of men’s fashion in just over sixty years.
Fatigue Pants were introduced by the U.S. Army in 1952 as part of the Utility Uniform, intended to replace the work garments worn during World War II and the Korean War. The original name, OG 107, referred to the designated color of this uniform: “OG” stands for “Olive Green”, while “107” corresponds to the reference code for its distinctive gray-green shade. These pants were designed to be practical and durable. They were made from 8.5-ounce cotton sateen, feature a loose fit, and include patch pockets on both the front and back. The troops nicknamed them “Fatigue” because they commonly wore them for maintenance, training, and factory labor. Fatigue Pants remained in use until 1981, becoming one of the iconic garments of the Cold War era, particularly during the Vietnam War.
As often occurs after a military conflict, millions of OG-107 Fatigue Pants began circulating in surplus stores across the United States and countries influenced by it. Their widespread availability, extremely low price (less than $2), and exceptional comfort led to their rapid adoption in various popular circles. Workers, farmers, and artisans embraced them for labor, preserving their original function. This association with the working class may explain the connection between Fatigue Pants and British dockworkers, as well as their unexpected link to Japanese bakers—so much so that in Japan, the garment is also known as “Baker Pants”. In the 1960s, OG-107 pants became a tool of political protest. The Vietnam Veterans Against the War (VVAW) started wearing them during demonstrations against U.S. intervention, stripping away their military context and transforming them into symbols of defiance against authority, the establishment, and materialism. This subversion of their original meaning turned Fatigue Pants into a kind of “uniform” for various rebellion movements, from hippies to skinheads and freedom fighters in different regions of the world. Beyond their symbolic value, their loose fit and durable fabric made them an ideal choice for early climbers and skaters, who appreciated their freedom of movement and sturdiness. Thus, from workwear to protest icon and ultimately a staple of streetwear, the OG-107 Fatigue Pants have spanned decades of history while maintaining their aura of nonconformity and authenticity.
The cinematic portrayal of fatigue pants is extensive and often linked to the military origins of this iconic garment. One significant moment in their widespread adoption into American culture was during the Vietnam War—a conflict that deeply impacted society and is frequently depicted in entertainment with critical perspectives. Among the most influential television series is *M*A*S*H* (1972–1983). Although it is set during the Korean War, the show follows the lives of a U.S. Army field hospital and has had a lasting impact on American television. In this series, fatigue pants are the primary clothing worn by the main characters, symbolizing that era. When focusing specifically on the Vietnam War, two iconic films deserve special mention: Full Metal Jacket (1987) directed by Stanley Kubrick and Good Morning, Vietnam (1987) starring Robin Williams. In both films, fatigue pants serve not only as a historically accurate detail but also accompany the protagonists in every scene, reinforcing the connection between military uniforms and the cinematic representation of one of the most controversial conflicts in American history.
Fatigue Pants are a timeless classic in the military world, valued for their functionality and essential design. Vintage55’s interpretation of this model retains the iconic patch pockets on the front and back, along with a comfortable fit, while incorporating refined details and innovative materials. Our research began with the original design, examining shades of OG green from specimens over sixty years old. We aim to celebrate their timeless appeal by experimenting with different washes, unique fabrics, and high-quality details. Among the most intriguing variations are those made from Japanese unwashed denim, a premium fabric that adds structure and depth to the garment, further enhanced by specialized washes and finishes. The result is a pair of pants that preserves the authentic charm of their military origins while seamlessly transitioning from casual to more sophisticated looks. With each collection, the Fatigue Pants are reinterpreted with new details and materials, making them one of the heritage pieces we cherish the most.
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